holley sniper efi iac problemsafc liverpool attendances
The throttle position should be zero. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. I've changed all the I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table It then started working normally again. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. Yes, you are correct. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. Don't try to correct for the fuel. Okay, try my method. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. P.S. The distributor was loose. Inj. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN no timing control. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. :-). :-). Hello Chris. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. 3 different fuel pumps. The IAC going to 30 is normal. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Does that make sense to you? So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. nothing stays steady. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. It wont fire up. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. Please advise. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. They tell you to ask call Holley. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. I looking for your expert opinion. Any help would b great. Check fuel pressure too (. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. Capability Range: Advanced If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. Try it! Duty Cycle% = 3 Jun 12, 2021. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. That will at least tell you something. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) you have it set. IAC Pos.% = 0 normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now.